La Merenda
Two-Michelin-star chef Dominique Le Stanc's bare-essentials Niçoise counter
A car-free tangle of ochre lanes where the market, the aperitif and Niçois home cooking all happen within a few steps.
The oldest quarter folds in on itself in a maze of ochre lanes too narrow for cars, where laundry still hangs between shuttered windows above shops selling olive oil, candied fruit and socca by the slice. Mornings belong to the Cours Saleya flower-and-produce market; by evening the same square turns into terraces where locals drink pastis before dinner. Eating here means trottoir tables, hand-written menus and Niçois cooking — pissaladière, daube, stockfish — rather than anything that needs translating. It is touristy in stretches but the side streets stay genuinely lived-in, and the late hours belong to the bars around Place Rossetti.
11 places
Two-Michelin-star chef Dominique Le Stanc's bare-essentials Niçoise counter
Four generations of Cuisine Nissarde on rue Droite since 1927
Michelin Bib Gourmand bistrot on the prettiest lane in the old town
Open-kitchen market bistro off Place Rossetti, Bib Gourmand
Retro bistro de marché between Porte Fausse and the Palais de Justice
Nicole Rubi's celebrated Provençal table by the Opéra
Pop-art-walled old-town bistro the locals guard
Family rotisserie of spit-roasted meats near Place Rossetti
Cheese, natural wine and fondue in a 16th-century vaulted cave
Mediterranean-meets-South-America raw fish bar by the Opéra
Brothers' laundromat-turned-natural-wine kitchen in the old town
4 places
Fourth-generation Niçoise wine bar, granito counter, since 1947
1900s-decor corner brasserie-bar the old town drinks at
Natural-wine cellar and bar in Vieux Nice
Craft cocktails in a former fishing cabana
2 places
3 places
Nice's oldest coffee roaster, three generations since 1925
Belle-époque confiseur and chocolatier opposite the Opéra since 1820
The morning produce-and-flower market that feeds the old town
2 places
2 places