Aventino-San Saba

Leafy and patrician, the Aventine rises just above the food-dense valley of Testaccio, all quiet villas, the Orange Garden of Parco Savello and the famous keyhole view across to St Peter's. Down on Viale Aventino, the Faro specialty-coffee bar gives it a modern morning ritual. Residential and refined, it is the calm counterpoint, the hill where the cosmopolitan visitor takes coffee and a long view before descending into the serious eating below.