Checchino dal 1887
The quinto-quarto cathedral carved into Monte Testaccio
Rome's true culinary heart, where cucina romana was codified around the old slaughterhouse and the covered market.
Wedged between the Tiber and Monte dei Cocci, Testaccio is the working-class district where Roman cooking was effectively codified. Built around the old slaughterhouse, it is the home of the quinto quarto (offal) tradition and the covered Nuovo Mercato, with century-old trattorie like Checchino, Perilli and Felice anchoring one end and Cicolini-school new-wave kitchens the other. For a visitor used to Istanbul's depth of neighbourhood eating, this is the city's most honest table: no monuments, no posing, just substance.
9 places
The quinto-quarto cathedral carved into Monte Testaccio
Textbook cucina romana cut into the amphora hill
Cacio e pepe as liturgy since 1911
1936 osteria famed for tableside cacio e pepe
Three-decade neighbourhood trattoria with day-specific menus
The benchmark thin-crust Roman pizza of Testaccio
The original home of Rome's pizza-pocket of cucina romana
Sergio Esposito's legendary Roman-classic panini in the market
Checked-cloth family trattoria of pure Roman recipes
2 places