Spirito DiVino
Catalani family taberna reviving ancient Roman recipes in old Trastevere
Cobbled medieval lanes west of the Tiber where the best tables hide just off the tourist-packed piazze.
West of the river, Trastevere is a knot of cobbled medieval lanes around Santa Maria in Trastevere that turns from quiet workshop quarter by day to dense conviviality by night. The central piazze are tourist-saturated, but the side alleys still hold the real tables: Da Enzo al 29, Spirito DiVino, Glass Hostaria and Seu Pizza Illuminati. The neighbourhood rewards exactly the instinct an Istanbul diner already has: walk two streets off the obvious square and the food gets serious.
6 places
Catalani family taberna reviving ancient Roman recipes in old Trastevere
Cristina Bowerman's Michelin-starred creative kitchen in a Trastevere backstreet
Antonio Ziantoni's measured, classically-grounded one-star tucked behind Trastevere
Pier Daniele Seu's contemporary-pizza laboratory on the Trastevere fringe
Tiny family trattoria doing Roman classics exactly right
Mother-and-daughters kitchen lab for inventive panini, pasta and focaccia
3 places
Thirty-year sister-run enoteca and restaurant off Piazza Trilussa
Pioneering Trastevere cocktail bar in a former mechanic's garage
The tiny pub that launched Italy's craft-beer movement
2 places