Le Saint-Sébastien

Daniela Lavadenz and Thomas Deck reopened Le Saint-Sébastien in 2018 as a neo-bistro that quietly does the things others advertise: vegetable-led plates that aren't vegetarian, savoury notes wired into desserts, a 400-reference wine list with serious depth in natural and biodynamic France, and a service team that treats first-time guests the way other rooms treat regulars. The street is a Septime-era backwater that has filled in around it. The cooking changes weekly. It is one of the rooms locals send out-of-town chefs to when they want to see what the 11e looks like now.