Places in Bastille, Charonne & Oberkampf

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie, the Equinoxe was born here

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe, 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

11e cave-à-manger with one of Paris's deepest natural-wine cellars, 250+ cuvées.