Adresses in Florence

16-room design retreat over Europe's largest private garden

Florence's oldest historic cafe, founded 1733

Tiny organic salotto for plant-leaning breakfast and lunch near Pitti

Florence's last great enoteca, standing-room since 1880

Red-velvet, Pergola-theatre seats — the see-and-be-seen Sant'Ambrogio bistrot

Specialty roastery and coffee laboratory in San Frediano

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

The original 2013 specialty-coffee bar minutes from Santa Croce

Florence's legendary flourless chocolate cake, since the 1980s

Family wine shop and tasting since 1934, beyond the tourist belt

Wood-panelled wine bar by the old San Miniato gate, 600+ labels

Boutique enoteca facing Palazzo Pitti, 3,000 labels deep

The Florentine name for schiacciata, on Piazza San Marco since 1925

Mid-century-art design hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

Tiny Oltrarno gelateria of organic, seasonal, natural-colour gelato

Art Nouveau bolthole with a handwritten daily menu on Piazza Ghiberti

No-frills San Frediano trattoria for peposo and fiorentina

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden

Frescoed 15th-century villa retreat in the Fiesole hills

Twenty-room townhouse hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

Contemporary Sant'Ambrogio trattoria facing the market

Neighbourhood wine shop and aperitivo room in Le Cure

All-day concept space: restaurant, cocktail bar, florist and design store

Panoramic Fiesole terrace with the classic view over the duomo

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Revered since-1992 wine bar of small independent growers near Ponte Vecchio

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

World's-50-Best cocktails inside a 13th-century palazzo

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Twentieth-century and contemporary art in a former Leopoldine hospital

The antiquarian's jewel-box museum, blue walls and the Devil's bronze

Greenhouse dining room reinventing Tuscan cooking in Sant'Ambrogio

The world's oldest pharmacy-perfumery, in continuous craft since 1221

Tuscan osteria in a medieval crypt off Via San Niccolò

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Florence's leading stage for international contemporary art

Artisan pastry shop in San Frediano since 1949

1928 pasticceria-cafe with Piemontese roots near Annunziata

Ferragamo-family riverside hotel with Michele Bonan's 1950s-cinema rooms

Belle-Epoque truffle-panini and Antinori wine bar since 1885

The schiacciata benchmark of Florence, on Piazza San Marco since 1925

Florentine-favoured trattoria on Piazza San Marco by the Accademia

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Vintage San Frediano bakery-grocer with an on-site oven

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

Working leather school and atelier inside the Santa Croce friary

Cult gourmet-panini counter by the Sant'Ambrogio market

Peruvian-Nikkei cooking that grew from a cevicheria into a gourmet destination

Eclectic 13-room Oltrarno B&B of salvaged antiques and frescoes

Storied Piazza della Passera trattoria with its famous pear fiocchetti

Florentine institution and wine cellar since 1901

Lunch counter inside the Sant'Ambrogio market where Florentines eat

Long-standing Oltrarno trattoria off Piazza del Carmine

1956 family trattoria, the homecooked heart of Santo Spirito

Family canteen behind the Mercato Centrale since 1953

Family-run Florentine canteen at Porta San Frediano since 1956

Lunch-only 1915 trattoria by San Lorenzo, run by the fourth generation

Renaissance monastery hotel and the Antesi loggia restaurant above Florence

Florence's gelato dynasty, the same family since 1929

Mother-and-son counter for handmade Tuscan dishes in San Niccolo