Locali in London

The Dirik family ocakbaşı since 1994, the canonical Turkish address the audience takes London-Turks to

The wine-magazine bar, Mark Andrew and Daniel Keeling's Bloomsbury original since 2015

P. Franco's successor at 107 Lower Clapton, a 25-cover wine shop with a hot plate at the back, chef residencies kept

A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches, chef Steve Williams

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro, the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

The larger Greek Street sister, 2020 in the former Gay Hussar room, with a proper kitchen

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to