Locali in London

Erchen Chang and the Chung siblings' original Lexington Street bun counter, Bib Gourmand Taiwanese, queue-only on the corner

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro, the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

Adriana Cavita's Marylebone Mexican, generous, regional, unfussy

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı, kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria, al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter, Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument

Moxon Street's cheese reference since 1992, Patricia Michelson's affineur, walk-in tasting room

Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944, pasta as Italian commute

The fresh-pasta queue London actually accepts, Shoreditch sister of the Borough original

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to

Endo Kazutoshi's Notting Hill casual, sushi without the omakase ceremony