Locali in Madrid

Arzábal's garden restaurant inside the Reina Sofía

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

Grilled sardines and El Rastro Sunday ritual since 1977

The Rastro's snail institution since 1942

The 1929 tavern where the Yayo was born

1860 tavern of legendary bacalao, croquetas and Madrid history

A 1920 taberna reborn, ibérico-and-truffle croquetas and noble menú del día

The locals' temple of battered bacalao near Plaza Mayor

Churros con chocolate in a marble-and-tile room since 1894

All-day West-Coast cafe with in-house bakery and La Cabra coffee

An eight-seat Michelin room hidden inside the world's great tablao

Madrid's only three-star, Dabiz Muñoz's avant-garde theatre

Steamship-styled seafood house in the business north

Communal-table specialty coffee with an Asian-vintage touch

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

A 19th-century Salamanca palace with two Michelin stars downstairs

Iron-and-glass design five-star with a Michelin-starred kitchen

1929-rooted tin-bar taberna by the Retiro

Juanjo López's seasonal cocido house by the Retiro

Classic seafood and casa-style tapas on Ponzano

Bohemian Basque pintxo bar on Cava Baja since the 1980s

Malasaña's mid-century living room, all day into the night

The credible Turkish kitchen Madrid actually has

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Hola Coffee's specialty café and bakehouse on the Conde Duque edge

The canonical Spanish painting collection, Velázquez, Goya, Bosch

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The collection that fills the gaps, eight centuries on one walk

Lázaro Rosa-Violán-designed mansion hotel in Salesas

An 1886 building reworked by Lázaro Rosa-Violán, beside Retiro

A 32-room 19th-century mansion on a quiet Chamberí street

Reborn Castellana grande dame with Jesús Sánchez's Amós

Madrid's oldest tavern, untouched since before 1787

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

Small wine-led tapas tavern off the Retiro

1908 tiled-facade tavern for vermouth and tapas

Toma's Chamberí roastery room near Plaza de Olavide

Conde Duque specialty roastery cafe with natural wine after dark

Madrid's first boutique five-star, in a 1915 neoclassical townhouse

Spain's exclusive La Cabra outpost for coffee and bakehouse

1892 bodega, vermut de grifo and one of Madrid's best tortillas

Herzog & de Meuron culture house with a vertical garden

Plaza de San Ildefonso specialty café and work-friendly hub

Lavapiés's avant-garde cultural centre with a rooftop terrace

Quiet old-school tapas bar beside the Conde Duque centre

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

Belle Époque ducal palace-hotel with a private garden

The roaster that lit Madrid's specialty-coffee fuse, since 2012