Bistro in Paris

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet, GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

The 11e's reference bistro, steak-frites, soufflé, white tablecloths and zero affectation.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro, spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay, chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois, controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark, Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Vegetable-driven neo-bistro with a 400-bottle wine list and savoury-leaning desserts.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes