Venues similar to Étsi

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street, chef-driven, value-strong tasting

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul, the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.