Venues similar to Le Petit Cambodge

Counter-seat Korean, chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.