Locali affini a Mariage Frères, Marais

Belle Époque salon de thé since 1903, Mont-Blanc and chocolat l'Africain under the rue de Rivoli arcades

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram, boutique and salon

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

Former Hugo & Victor relaunched under the chef's name, 2003 French Dessert Champion's first eponymous boutique

Gaston Lenôtre's flagship since 1957, the Plaine Monceau room that taught a generation of French pastry chefs

Robert Linxe's original chocolate boutique since 1977, the room that defined Paris bean-to-praline

Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2000 chocolatier, the Madeleine flagship with the life-size chocolate sculptures

Alain Ducasse's bean-to-bar manufacture in the 11e, Nicolas Berger's atelier behind a cobbled courtyard

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster, since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961, still family-run, still the standard.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.