Rustic in Bodrum

The Kızılağaç köy kahvaltısı address on the Yalıçiftlik road since 2015, with eggs from the garden coop and a kitchen run by the family that owns the land.

The 1987 family pansiyon on the Yalıçiftlik strand, with a sea-front dining room the chapter reads as Çiftlik's straight-line meze house.

Torba village's family-run Aegean and Turkish kitchen, twenty-plus years on Atatürk Caddesi, manti and çiğ börek

The Kızılağaç köy garden with a kendin-pişir kendin-ye mangal pit, a stone-oven kahvaltı line and a small zoo for the children, fifteen years on the same road.

The Alparslan family's clean-and-quiet pansiyon on Yalıçiftlik Caddesi, three generations on the strand, café meals on the deck, no destination noise.

The İhtiyar brothers' 1995 ice-cream counter on Bitez square, before it was a national name

A Gürece atelier making cow-and-goat-milk dondurma with real salep and nothing else, three tables out front

A restored stone-house art village on the Yakaköy ridge, galleries, ateliers, an Ottoman ethnographic room and a film bar

Gündoğan's village house breakfast since 1999, named for the wood-burning kuzine in the back garden

A restored nineteenth-century olive-oil mill in Ortakent, run as a wine and coffee house with a working press

The morning corner of Gümüşlük, where coffee arrives before the boats unload