Στέκια in Paris

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Belle Époque salon de thé since 1903 — Mont-Blanc and chocolat l'Africain under the rue de Rivoli arcades

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961 — still family-run, still the standard.

The 1896 original — Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

Best Baguette de Paris 2024 winner — sourdough, charcoal-black tradition, and weekend croissant programme

Philippe Starck's 1970s post-office turned Trocadéro design hotel with rooftop kitchen garden.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster — since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room — marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

Madeleine institution since 1927 — the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram — boutique and salon

LVMH's Samaritaine flagship with three-Michelin Plénitude, Dior Spa Cheval Blanc and a 30-meter pool.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas — a Paris postcard.

12 rooms, all looking onto Place des Vosges — Evok Collection's quietest, most contemplative Paris address.

The 7e roastery that started Paris's specialty-coffee third wave in 2011.

Paris's oldest chocolate shop since 1800 — Marie Antoinette's chemist's listed boutique on rue des Saints-Pères

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

Christophe Vasseur's 1875-listed bakery on rue Yves Toudic — pain des amis, escargots, no shortcuts.

The only European palace with three Michelin-starred restaurants and Jeff Leatham's florals.

The Melbourne brunch room that taught Montmartre flat whites.

Mahogany expat bar from 1911 — birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.

The original Pigalle boutique — leather banquettes, art on every wall, brunch all weekend.

1758 stone palace on Place de la Concorde, gold-scaled pool and Karl Lagerfeld suites.

Boutique design hotel inside a former metals factory — concrete, courtyard, cocktail bar at the centre.

Laurent Taïeb's reborn 1888 central post office with rooftop ROOF and Eiffel-facing terraces.

Avenue Montaigne palace with red awnings, Dior Spa and Jean Imbert's gilded dining room.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

Former Hugo & Victor relaunched under the chef's name — 2003 French Dessert Champion's first eponymous boutique

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Five-suite hidden townhouse on avenue Junot — Le Très Particulier cocktail bar, 900m² Benech garden.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Truffle institution on the Madeleine since 1932 — boutique downstairs, restaurant upstairs.

Robert Linxe's original chocolate boutique since 1977 — the room that defined Paris bean-to-praline

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie — the Equinoxe was born here

Pierre Yves Rochon-designed townhouse-palace near the Élysée with Michelin two-star Le Gabriel.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Le Bristol's curiosity-cabinet bar — Maxime Hoerth, first bartender awarded Meilleur Ouvrier de France (2011).

Royal Monceau's Philippe Starck-designed long bar — Forbes Travel Guide Star Bars 2025 pick on Avenue Hoche.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Alain Ducasse's bean-to-bar manufacture in the 11e — Nicolas Berger's atelier behind a cobbled courtyard

Southwest French institution since 1894 — Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Châtelet jazz club since 1984 — 300+ concerts a year, free Friday-Saturday midnight jam.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

Tuileries-facing Dorchester palace with Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse and Cédric Grolet pastry.

5-star hideaway behind ivy on Place des Vosges — 56 rooms, a courtyard, a Michelin-starred restaurant.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument — Belle Époque bouillon revived.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Philippe Starck's contemporary palace with private cinema, Matsuhisa and the Clarins-MyBlend spa.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Gaston Lenôtre's flagship since 1957 — the Plaine Monceau room that taught a generation of French pastry chefs

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie — painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

The only Palace hotel on the Left Bank, 1910 Belle Époque on Boulevard Raspail.

Art Deco palace on rue Saint-Honoré — 14m pool, garden courtyard, Cédric Grolet's pastry boutique

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

France's oldest tea house since 1854 — the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil — Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Jean-Louis Deniot-designed Evok hotel facing Comédie-Française, with Brasserie Réjane and a marble pool.

Place Vendôme palace by Ed Tuttle with Michelin-starred Pur' and a contemporary art-hung corridor.

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001 — matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2000 chocolatier — the Madeleine flagship with the life-size chocolate sculptures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

1898 Place Vendôme palace — Coco Chanel's home, Hemingway's bar, Espadon's dining room

The only chateau-hotel in Paris — Laura Gonzalez interiors, walled garden and Bellefeuille's Michelin star.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Prince Roland Bonaparte's former mansion with Eiffel-facing rooms and Shang Palace's Cantonese kitchen.

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Haussmannian Hôtel Majestic resurrected with rooftop L'Oiseau Blanc and a 360-degree dome view.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016 — the original room with the fox-mark logo

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.