Places in Lisbon

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

Twelve-seat temple to Portuguese low-intervention wine

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Italian-grandmother cooking in a former Beato video shop

Ground-zero natural-wine deli, cellar and bar

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Family tinned-fish house unchanged since 1930

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

The brewery that started Lisbon's Beer District

Tiny, tightly edited specialty bar by Principe Real

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

Sleek Marvila brewpub with a view of the silos

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Destination natural-wine bar and shop by Jardim da Estrela

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Natural-wine bar and merceria in the heart of the bairro

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

27-seat modern taberna for inventive petiscos near the Pantheon

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Sourdough, pastry and specialty coffee at 8 Marvila

The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best