Casual in London

Erchen Chang and the Chung siblings' original Lexington Street bun counter, Bib Gourmand Taiwanese, queue-only on the corner

Sam and Eddie Hart's original walk-in tapas counter, relocated, the Spanish bar London learned the format from

Boundary Street's Bombay Irani café, the bacon naan roll Londoners queue for at breakfast

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı, kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria, al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter, Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument

Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944, pasta as Italian commute

Greek Street's 1871 patisserie, London's oldest French pastry shop, still hand-laminated upstairs

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990, BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

The fresh-pasta queue London actually accepts, Shoreditch sister of the Borough original

Great Titchfield Street's all-day brasserie, the Fitzrovia office and the Sunday brunch in one room

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to

Endo Kazutoshi's Notting Hill casual, sushi without the omakase ceremony