Buvette

Since 2012, Jody Williams's Buvette has run on rue Henry Monnier as a marble-bar gastrothèque that doesn't keep restaurant hours: coffee at 8:30, tartines at noon, a glass of natural wine in the afternoon, coq au vin and chocolate mousse late into the night. The aesthetic — exposed brick, smudged mirrors, a single flower on each table — has been imitated across Paris and never bettered. Le Fooding writes about it in its current guide; visiting cooks treat it as a lodestar. For an Istanbul guest staying near Pigalle who wants one room that handles breakfast through nightcap without changing register, this is the answer.