Adresses in Çeşme

The world's largest olive oil museum — a Klazomenai mill replica, a working modern press, a restaurant and a shop, seventeen kilometres from Alaçatı

Waterfront boutique rooms with a private slip of beach

A 322-year-old Hellenistic stone house steps from the ruins

Stone terrace at the gate of Erythrai antique city — the Ildırı sunset bench with takımadalar in frame

The 1994 Saturday market on Tokoğlu's edge — the peninsula's slow-food anchor and the village's true social square

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie — a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

A small Şifne fish house on the village side — for when even Ferdi Baba feels too crowded

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter — a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Founded 1953 by the Kadagan brothers from Yugoslavia — the peninsula's archetype of stew-pot Anatolian home cooking, still in family hands

Eğlenhoca cooperative dairy — small-batch sepet keçi, deri tulum and oily-piquant kopanisti from peninsula goats

Tomris Maravent's 2004 corner café — the steady Alaçatı pulse, eight tables that grew into the village living room

The peninsula's serious specialty coffee bar — Guatemala, Colombia, Kenya, Ethiopia on rotation, a Hacımemiş regulars' room

Mordoğan iskele room facing the sea — the working-village fish counter that yacht trade hasn't reached

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village — forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women