Venues similar to Padella Shoreditch

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990, BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria, al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter, Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument

Erchen Chang and the Chung siblings' original Lexington Street bun counter, Bib Gourmand Taiwanese, queue-only on the corner

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı, kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944, pasta as Italian commute

Boundary Street's Bombay Irani café, the bacon naan roll Londoners queue for at breakfast

Endo Kazutoshi's Notting Hill casual, sushi without the omakase ceremony

Tomos Parry's Basque-grill flagship, whole turbot over wood, the room that reset East London cooking

Sam and Eddie Hart's original walk-in tapas counter, relocated, the Spanish bar London learned the format from

Greek Street's 1871 patisserie, London's oldest French pastry shop, still hand-laminated upstairs

The glass-roofed Manchester Square courtyard inside the Wallace Collection, Marylebone's quietest daytime room

A patinated 18th-century courtroom turned dining room, Clerkenwell's most photographed kitchen

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro, the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches, chef Steve Williams

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999, the polished mainstream of London Turkish

The Cut's no-bookings gastropub, what Waterloo eats before the National Theatre

Sam and Sam Clark's tapas-bar sister to Moro, eight metres along the same row, the small-plate version of the same kitchen.

Adriana Cavita's Marylebone Mexican, generous, regional, unfussy