Locali affini a Le Pantruche

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro — spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles — chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie — Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The first Italian in Paris to win a Michelin star — 600-bottle list, 40 years on.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house — heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.