Restaurant in London

Chet Sharma's one-Michelin-star Mayfair Indian, the JKS room that reframed regional Indian cooking in 2021.

Tomos Parry's Basque-grill flagship, whole turbot over wood, the room that reset East London cooking

A 15-cover Michelin-starred tasting room inside Blue Mountain School, cooking is the only headline

JKS Restaurants' two-Michelin-star Indian on Albemarle Street, Trishna's older Mayfair sister and the standard against which the rest measure themselves.

Tomos Parry's Michelin-starred Beak Street wood-fired room, the Basque grill that Brat became Soho-confident in

London's longest-standing Michelin-starred room, Charlotte Street since 1991, in its 35th anniversary year

Rainer Becker's original 2004 robatayaki, the Charlotte Street counter Roka grew from, with Shochu Lounge in the basement

London's longest-standing Michelin-starred pub, Fulham backstreets, game and wild food

Karam Sethi's Marylebone coastal-Indian, one Michelin star held since 2012

Rafael Cagali's two-Michelin-star tasting room inside the Town Hall Hotel, Bethnal Green's destination kitchen.

Adam Byatt's two-Michelin-star Clapham Old Town room, the most considered cooking south-west of the river.

Henrietta Street's modern British room from the Kitty Fisher's team, clubby, candle-lit, opera-night reliable.

Beirut's Mireille Hayek inside Harrods, the polished Lebanese set-menu room that translates Em Sherif Beirut's standard for SW1.

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999, the polished mainstream of London Turkish

St Martin's Court's 1890s seafood institution, Theatreland's pre-curtain Dover sole

Bloomsbury French, the silver duck press, the classical menu and one of the very last rooms in Europe still pressing canard à la presse.

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant, open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.

Since 1742, Jermyn Street oysters, game in season, and a clubland Britain that has stopped existing almost everywhere else.