Στέκια in Paris

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Belle Époque salon de thé since 1903, Mont-Blanc and chocolat l'Africain under the rue de Rivoli arcades

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961, still family-run, still the standard.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The 1896 original, Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon, Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Best Baguette de Paris 2024 winner, sourdough, charcoal-black tradition, and weekend croissant programme

Philippe Starck's 1970s post-office turned Trocadéro design hotel with rooftop kitchen garden.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster, since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

Madeleine institution since 1927, the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram, boutique and salon

LVMH's Samaritaine flagship with three-Michelin Plénitude, Dior Spa Cheval Blanc and a 30-meter pool.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

12 rooms, all looking onto Place des Vosges, Evok Collection's quietest, most contemplative Paris address.

The 7e roastery that started Paris's specialty-coffee third wave in 2011.

Paris's oldest chocolate shop since 1800, Marie Antoinette's chemist's listed boutique on rue des Saints-Pères

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

Christophe Vasseur's 1875-listed bakery on rue Yves Toudic, pain des amis, escargots, no shortcuts.

Mexican street-food institution on rue Eugène Varlin, Canal Saint-Martin's handmade-tortilla bench since 2011.

The only European palace with three Michelin-starred restaurants and Jeff Leatham's florals.

Mahogany expat bar from 1911, birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

The original Pigalle boutique, leather banquettes, art on every wall, brunch all weekend.

1758 stone palace on Place de la Concorde, gold-scaled pool and Karl Lagerfeld suites.

Boutique design hotel inside a former metals factory, concrete, courtyard, cocktail bar at the centre.

Laurent Taïeb's reborn 1888 central post office with rooftop ROOF and Eiffel-facing terraces.

Avenue Montaigne palace with red awnings, Dior Spa and Jean Imbert's gilded dining room.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

Former Hugo & Victor relaunched under the chef's name, 2003 French Dessert Champion's first eponymous boutique

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Five-suite hidden townhouse on avenue Junot, Le Très Particulier cocktail bar, 900m² Benech garden.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Truffle institution on the Madeleine since 1932, boutique downstairs, restaurant upstairs.

Robert Linxe's original chocolate boutique since 1977, the room that defined Paris bean-to-praline

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Pierre Yves Rochon-designed townhouse-palace near the Élysée with Michelin two-star Le Gabriel.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

The Directoire mansion with the retractable roof, a multi-decade Paris institution off the Champs-Élysées.

Royal Monceau's Philippe Starck-designed long bar, Forbes Travel Guide Star Bars 2025 pick on Avenue Hoche.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Alain Ducasse's bean-to-bar manufacture in the 11e, Nicolas Berger's atelier behind a cobbled courtyard

Southwest French institution since 1894, Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Châtelet jazz club since 1984, 300+ concerts a year, free Friday-Saturday midnight jam.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784, historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

Tuileries-facing Dorchester palace with Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse and Cédric Grolet pastry.

5-star hideaway behind ivy on Place des Vosges, 56 rooms, a courtyard, a Michelin-starred restaurant.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument, Belle Époque bouillon revived.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul, twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Philippe Starck's contemporary palace with private cinema, Matsuhisa and the Clarins-MyBlend spa.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Gaston Lenôtre's flagship since 1957, the Plaine Monceau room that taught a generation of French pastry chefs

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Slavic luxe in a 1910 Art Nouveau hôtel particulier, Paris Society's caviar address.

The only Palace hotel on the Left Bank, 1910 Belle Époque on Boulevard Raspail.

Art Deco palace on rue Saint-Honoré, 14m pool, garden courtyard, Cédric Grolet's pastry boutique

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

France's oldest tea house since 1854, the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil, Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Jean-Louis Deniot-designed Evok hotel facing Comédie-Française, with Brasserie Réjane and a marble pool.

Place Vendôme palace by Ed Tuttle with Michelin-starred Pur' and a contemporary art-hung corridor.

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001, matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2000 chocolatier, the Madeleine flagship with the life-size chocolate sculptures

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

1898 Place Vendôme palace, Coco Chanel's home, Hemingway's bar, Espadon's dining room

The only chateau-hotel in Paris, Laura Gonzalez interiors, walled garden and Bellefeuille's Michelin star.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Prince Roland Bonaparte's former mansion with Eiffel-facing rooms and Shang Palace's Cantonese kitchen.

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Haussmannian Hôtel Majestic resurrected with rooftop L'Oiseau Blanc and a 360-degree dome view.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.