Restaurant in Athens

Kifissia izakaya, yakitori counter, charcoal-grilled, one Michelin star.

Pangrati five-chef collective, contemporary-Greek, Bib Gourmand, the city's most-booked Tuesday.

Working-class cellar since 1887, Athens Central Market lunch room, no signs, two doors, the city's most stubbornly itself room.

Vouliagmeni cliff-edge fish room, Athens-Riviera summer lunch, the rocky-cove view.

Pangrati taverna since 1926, barrel retsina, paper-tablecloth classics, the institution.

Plaka souvlaki stall since 1946, six stools, a charcoal grill, the canonical pita.

Pangrati mezedopoleio, the city's most-booked Bib Gourmand small-plates room.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant, the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.

Lefteris Lazarou's Piraeus marina seafood room, one Michelin star, the canonical Athens-Riviera fish dinner.

Nikis Street vegetarian-and-vegan day-room, the central-Athens brunch counter.

Koukaki rising small-plate room, modern-Greek, Acropolis-side, the chapter's Koukaki anchor.

Mitropoleos all-day food hall and hotel, produce market, day-bakery, modern-Greek dining counter.

Onassis Cultural Centre rooftop, Tasos Mantis' one-Michelin modern-Greek tasting room.

Psyrri taverna, regional-Greek cooking, Bib Gourmand, the mother's-kitchen register made formal.