Varoulko Seaside

Lefteris Lazarou — the first Greek chef to earn a Michelin star (1992) — runs Varoulko Seaside on the Mikrolimano marina in Piraeus, the fishing-port crescent thirty minutes by metro from Syntagma. The Michelin star is current and continuous. The kitchen is fish-only and the format is fish-led tasting menu (with à la carte options at lunch); the dining room looks straight out over the marina and the moored caïques, and the summer terrace runs the width of the building. For the Istanbul cosmopolitan, Varoulko is the chapter's canonical Athens-Riviera seafood booking — the cousin to a Kuruçeşme balıkçı, two metro stops from the centre, with a forty-year-old Michelin lineage attached.