Places in Çeşme

The world's largest olive oil museum, a Klazomenai mill replica, a working modern press, a restaurant and a shop, seventeen kilometres from Alaçatı

A working 9.5-dönüm farm puts its own tomatoes, peppers and preserves on a thirty-three-plate table overlooking a waterfall

A working ceramic atelier on Paşadayı square, pots thrown on-site and taught hands-on

A corner garden of lemon trees where the serpme stays classic and the pişi keeps coming, no bazaar-street theatre attached

The Sezginer family puts up a wholly organic morning under their own vines, pouring grape juice pressed from grapes you can reach up and pick

The 1994 Saturday market on Tokoğlu's edge, the peninsula's slow-food anchor and the village's true social square

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie, a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

A 130-year stone-house garden in Hacımemiş where the Aegean serpme is taken seriously and the bazlama still comes off the saç

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter, a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Founded 1953 by the Kadagan brothers from Yugoslavia, the peninsula's archetype of stew-pot Anatolian home cooking, still in family hands

A breakfast garden among Ovacık's vines, own house wine, own jams, own menemen

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village, forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women

A twelve-year Alaçatı kahvaltı institution that quietly moved into the village square, herbed eggs, proper jams, no theatrics

A reservation-only farm garden between Alaçatı and Ovacık where the orange-cured olives alone earn the trip