Lemar

Lemar has been cooking proper Afghan home food in Munich since 2001 — for years the Innenstadt and Isartor branches kept it accessible across the city, but the Schwabing room on Viktor-Scheffel-Straße is now the flagship and the only one with regular hours. Seventy seats, pastel walls hung with mosaic-inlaid tables, the smell of cardamom and cinnamon and fresh coriander as soon as you walk in. The kitchen specialises in lamb — fresh, never frozen, hand-spiced rather than curry-pasted — alongside the dish you actually come for: Borani Kado, sweet pumpkin braised with chilli and honey, served with garlic yogurt and a flatbread. There is no other Afghan kitchen in Munich operating at this register; everything else is takeaway.