Lasserre

Lasserre at 17 avenue Franklin Roosevelt has been running since the 1940s and is the Paris room with the famous retractable roof — opens to the night sky between courses, closes for the entremets. The Directoire mansion was built into a destination by founder René Lasserre (d. 2006), and the dining room — columns, orchids, silver tableware, Chinese porcelain — has been preserved at the same standard for eight decades. The kitchen under Jean-Louis Nomicos holds one Michelin star with a Mediterranean-leaning take on the heritage menu (stuffed macaroni with black truffle, the 'André Malraux' squab).