Nea Folia

Open since 1967 on the lower fringe of Ano Poli, Nea Folia looks like a cross between a grandmother's kitchen and a corner deli: timber chairs, dry pasta for sale on the shelves and an old jukebox in the corner. The handwritten menu turns with the season toward dishes like liver with sauteed cabbage, Xanthi kavourmas and seasonal seafood, poured with boutique Greek labels. It draws locals precisely because it sits off the tourist track.