Ouzeri Tsinari

On the corner that gave it its name, taken from the Turkish cinar (plane tree), Tsinari is the upper town's most venerable ouzeri, its premises barely changed since the late 19th century. Opened as a Turkish kafeneio and turned ouzeri after the 1920s population exchange, it has been kept by the Papadopoulou family since the early 1990s. You sit under the tree over tsipouro and a rotating spread of mezedes in a room that reads as a fragment of Ottoman Thessaloniki.