Le Bon Saint Pourçain

Le Bon Saint Pourçain hides on rue Servandoni, the cobbled lane that connects the colonnade of Saint-Sulpice to the Luxembourg railings. Twenty-five seats, café-curtain front, rescued in 2015 by David Lanher (Racines, Caffè Stern) and chef Mathieu Techer; immediately won Le Fooding's Prix du Meilleur Bistrot, named one of the New York Times' ten best openings of 2015, and best new table by Le Figaro. The card is short and seasonal — œuf parfait with smoked herring, lieu jaune with sorrel, rabbit with mustard — and the wine list runs about seventy references, biodynamic, with a careful Saint-Pourçain section. Reserve a fortnight ahead; lunch is the easier seat.