Venues similar to Le Comptoir du Relais

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark — Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Basque auberge on Quai Saint-Exupéry — Pierre Oteiza Kintoa pork, pintxos, the Trinquet Village Seine-edge terrace.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.