Loulou

Loulou occupies the dining room of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and spills onto a long terrace into the Tuileries — the kind of view that makes any plate taste better. Chef Benoît Dargère keeps the kitchen Mediterranean and unfussy: piccata of milk-fed veal, octopus with aioli, daily risotto, fresh pasta. It is the natural lunch venue if you have spent a morning at the Louvre or are walking from rue de Rivoli to the Palais-Royal. Booking essential for the terrace in spring and summer; the inside room is a fallback rather than a destination.