Caïus

Jean-Marc Notelet has run Caïus on rue d'Armaillé, a few minutes from the Arc de Triomphe, for over fifteen years as one of western Paris's most devoted market-cooks: no fixed menu, a chalkboard rewritten daily, an unusual command of spice (his real obsession). The Michelin Guide and Gault&Millau both list it; the room — refurbished by Adnet/Hertrich in aubergine, curry-orange and red, with a 12-person table d'hôtes — is full most nights with locals who treat the chef's spice-cabinet as a regional cuisine of its own. For an Istanbul visitor near Étoile who wants a chef-led bistro instead of another brasserie, Caïus is the answer.