Doyum Grillhaus

Doyum Grillhaus is the Anatolian-Turkish ocakbaşı on Admiralstraße in Kreuzberg that runs the open-flame charcoal grill the audience recognises from Istanbul — the lamb adana, the lahmacun, the meat-and-aubergine kebap formats served in the format Anatolian-Berlin operators built rather than the Berlin-döner Imbiss format. The room is loud, the kitchen visible, the queue out the door on weekends. The bay's reader reference is the point — Doyum demonstrates that the Anatolian-Berlin culinary case for what serious-ocakbaşı looks like in this city has been made.