Locali affini a Furia

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street — Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008 — David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles — chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.