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Nas and Cem's 2019 boulangerie-bistro on 12047 — proper viennoiserie, hand-made sandwiches and a Tuesday day off

Hacımemiş's mulberry-tree corner since 1963 — the village's classical Turkish coffee bench, untouched by the specialty wave

Tomris Maravent's 2004 corner café — the steady Alaçatı pulse, eight tables that grew into the village living room

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie — a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter — a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

The original sakızlı muhallebi house — the recipe the rest of the country has spent twenty years trying to copy

Stone terrace at the gate of Erythrai antique city — the Ildırı sunset bench with takımadalar in frame

The 1945 İnkılap Caddesi corner where damla sakızlı dondurma was invented — a Mersin family pastane now in its third generation

The 1994 Saturday market on Tokoğlu's edge — the peninsula's slow-food anchor and the village's true social square

The mastic park north of the village — the peninsula's only living gallery of Pistacia lentiscus and the Sakız Ağacım revival project's home

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village — forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women

A breakfast garden among Ovacık's vines — own house wine, own jams, own menemen

A twelve-year Alaçatı kahvaltı institution that quietly moved into the village square — herbed eggs, proper jams, no theatrics

The world's largest olive oil museum — a Klazomenai mill replica, a working modern press, a restaurant and a shop, seventeen kilometres from Alaçatı

Eğlenhoca cooperative dairy — small-batch sepet keçi, deri tulum and oily-piquant kopanisti from peninsula goats

The Çeşme kumru, made by the same family since 1970

İzmir's serious French patisserie, summering in Ilıca

Thirty-seven local boutique bottles in the village's hundred-year priest's house — fireplace, three rooms upstairs, the bar that built the wine reputation

A 130-year stone-house garden in Hacımemiş where the Aegean serpme is taken seriously and the bazlama still comes off the saç

Olga and Özgür's Turkish-Russian courtyard kitchen — two grandmothers' recipes met in a stone garden under pomegranate and lemon