Restaurant in Paris

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

The 1896 original — Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.