Places in Vienna

The Innere Stadt kaffeehaus since 1876 — vaulted ceilings, Trotsky's chess table.

Mariahilf kaffeehaus since 1880 — UNESCO-listed interior, billiard tables intact.

Innere Stadt institution since 1618 — Beethoven's grocer, now the Bognergasse brunch.

Innere Stadt post-war intellectual kaffeehaus — Dorotheergasse, the night-Buchteln.

Ringstraße kaffeehaus since 1873 — the Burgtheater room, Freud's regular table.

Stubenring kaffeehaus since 1903 — the 1950s interior intact, the live piano three nights.

Sachertorte's owner of record since 1832 — inside Hotel Sacher, opposite the Staatsoper.

Mariahilf natural-wine bistro — Austrian growers, six-course chef's menu, open kitchen.

Steirereck's casual sister downstairs — the 120-cheese cellar and the Frühstück.

Haya Molcho's Israeli-Mediterranean original since 2009 — Naschmarkt corner table.