Lively in Çeşme

A neon-lit courtyard bar that runs on regulars, not reservations for show

A family-run raki-and-fish meyhane at the bazaar mouth where you bring your own bottle

Wood-fire day fish and herb meze with your feet near the sand at the Çark Beach bay

Enes Kara's stone courtyard reading of Aegean cooking, equal parts rooted and rewritten