Éditorial
Guides approfondis, regards locaux et stories éditoriales sur la cuisine, la culture et les quartiers de Crète.
The most Cretan meals on the island are not on the harbour. They are upland, cooked over wood fire and in clay, from animals and gardens the cook can see from the table. This is the food worth driving for.
Lire la storyThe Venetian harbour of Chania is one of the prettiest in the Mediterranean and one of the worst places to eat in it. Two streets back, in the old Turkish quarter of Splantzia, the city keeps its real tables.
Lire la storyFor two and a half centuries Crete was Ottoman, and the kitchen remembers it. In a handful of hammam rooms and citrus courtyards, the spice-led, slow-cooked Levantine table still sets, and for an Istanbul palate it tastes like a familiar relative.
Lire la storyLong dismissed as a transit point for Knossos, Heraklion has quietly become Crete's most interesting kitchen city. A UNESCO gastronomy label, a farm-to-table flagship and a wave of confident young chefs have changed what the capital tastes like.
Lire la storyCrete's vineyards survived where most of Europe's did not, keeping grapes that exist nowhere else. In the hills south of Heraklion, a cluster of family estates is turning that genetic inheritance into some of Greece's most distinctive wine, and you can taste it at the source.
Lire la storyRethymno keeps the most intact Venetian-Ottoman old town in Crete, and its best tables are hidden in courtyards behind the lanes: a monastery, a lemon garden, a 16th-century well. This is the island at its most atmospheric without sliding into spectacle.
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