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Bologna (Bolognina)
earthy, generous, pasta-devoted, unpretentious

Bologna (Bolognina)

Italy's deepest pasta city, where the rolling pin still rules and ragù is a birthright.

They call it Bologna la Grassa — the fat one — and the nickname is earned at the table, not the gym. This is the city of the sfoglia, the hand-rolled egg pastry that the sfoglina coaxes paper-thin with a long wooden pin before it becomes tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, lasagne layered green with spinach. The old trattorie under the porticoes treat tradition as a working recipe rather than a museum piece, and the salumerie of the Quadrilatero still slice mortadella thick enough to fold. Up in working-class Bolognina, away from the postcard towers, the cooking gets even more honest — long lunches, jug wine, a tortellino counted out by hand.

Da non perdere

Tortellini in brodo and tagliatelle al ragù made from hand-rolled sfoglia Salumerie of the Quadrilatero piling mortadella, prosciutto and culatello Trattorie under the medieval porticoes serving lunch the old way Osteria del Sole, a wine-only tavern open since 1465 where you bring your own food Bolognina's unvarnished neighbourhood kitchens away from the tourist trail
16 locali
3 Categorie

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