Locali affini a Pirouette

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul, the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Mikaela Liaroutsos's Greek bistro on rue Eugène Carrière, Michelin Guide listing, Le Fooding regular.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Three-Michelin since 1996, the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table, raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Southwest French institution since 1894, Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet, GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914, Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen