Venues similar to Pirouette

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Mikaela Liaroutsos's Greek bistro on rue Eugène Carrière — Michelin Guide listing, Le Fooding regular.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision — the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table — raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Southwest French institution since 1894 — Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas — Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914 — Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen