Jugaad

Paris was for years the European capital with the weakest fine-dining Indian scene — bookings defaulted to London, Antwerp, even Brussels. Manoj Sharma (Delhi-born, Vineet Bhatia at Rasoi London, Cinnamon Club, Amaya) opened Jugaad on rue de Choiseul a stone's throw from the Opéra-Comique to fix that. The room reads contemporary not folkloric: khaki walls, fuchsia mouldings, multicoloured wicker, an open tandoor visible from the dining room. The cooking is the regional-modern register — chicken tikka with caramelised tomato, sea bream in banana leaf, gulab jamun cheesecake — backed by Nicolas Escalpez and Alexandre Guillet. Le Fooding listed; GaultMillau covered. The Indian-room reference for the audience that books in central Paris.