Cookies Cream

Cookies Cream sits down a service alley behind the Westin Grand Hotel on Behrenstraße — you walk past the goods entrance, through a door that is not signed, up the back stairs, and into a high-ceilinged warehouse room that has held one Michelin star since 2017. Stephan Hentschel cooks a vegetarian tasting menu that the guide-keepers have accepted as one of the most coherent in Germany; six or seven courses, the protein is dairy and grain, the technique is full classical-modern. The room reads as a deliberate refusal of the hotel-restaurant register that the building's front entrance announces. Sister bar Crackers is the natural pre-dinner room and sits in the same building.