Vino Alaçatı

Stone-walled Hacımemiş room where wine, jazz and Aegean cooking share the same evening — Ozan Musluoğlu directs the music

Small candlelit cocktail room off 2000. Sokak — handcrafted drinks, low volume, the closest the village gets to a proper speakeasy

The Yılmaz family's Çiftlikköy seafront since 2009 — the quietest Çeşme fish table looking across to Sakız

Olga and Özgür's Turkish-Russian courtyard kitchen — two grandmothers' recipes met in a stone garden under pomegranate and lemon

Burakhan Akçe's open-air sharing room — modern Aegean small plates a careful step away from Kemalpaşa Caddesi's noise

The original sakızlı muhallebi house — the recipe the rest of the country has spent twenty years trying to copy