Intimate in Bodrum

Erhan Usta's fish house on the Gümüşlük iskele since 1983, still the chef's name on the door

Chef Nilay Lale's Khai Hotel signature room on the Yahşi pier, modern Aegean meets Asian technique.

The Kumbahçe seafood room with a Michelin Green Star and one menu for the whole house each night

A bougainvillea-shaded hilltop terrace that has been the Gümüşlük sunset for two decades

A small Adliye Sokak family kitchen, a meze tray and a chalkboard fish list, and a returning crowd that knows the names

A Gümüşlük classic since 1990, fish-grill room on the Yalı Mevkii with the same logic three decades on

A direct-on-the-water Gümüşlük fish room with the boats and Rabbit Island a metre from the table

Mehmet Yalçınkaya's seafood room set inside the courtyard of the old Kocadon stone house

A restored stone-house art village on the Yakaköy ridge, galleries, ateliers, an Ottoman ethnographic room and a film bar

Torba's classic family fish house, on the Kilise bay since 1987 and open through the off-season

A speakeasy cocktail bar set inside a 500-year-old stone house behind the marina, lemon tree in the garden

Bodrum's only real Spanish house, Neco's San Sebastián tapas on a 300-year-old stone street

The Akyarlar harbour fish house run by the same family since 1986, with Kos a sunset away across the strait

The Gümüşlük meze house's Türkbükü sister, on Liman Caddesi with thirty cold and hot starters

A meyhane built into Sadun Boro's old Bodrum house, with kanun on the terrace and the castle in view

An intimate Türkbükü beachfront kitchen with a small chef-led menu that turns over with the season

A Roman chef's intimate trattoria in Kumbahçe, pasta alla genovese and a roof terrace over Bodrum bay

A Çarşı-side cocktail bar with the castle in the frame and a list that takes itself seriously

The first table on the Gümüşlük iskele since 1962, still run by the family

A quieter alternative on the Gümüşlük iskele, run by a fishing family

Türkbükü's Armenian-Aegean table, family-run and quietly precise

A long-running fish house at the western Bodrum harbour, with a serious raki sofrası

Garden-style Aegean cooking in an old village house behind the marina

An understated Bitez seafront fish house that runs to the proper meyhane register