Places in Çeşme

The world's largest olive oil museum — a Klazomenai mill replica, a working modern press, a restaurant and a shop, seventeen kilometres from Alaçatı

The 1945 İnkılap Caddesi corner where damla sakızlı dondurma was invented — a Mersin family pastane now in its third generation

The 1994 Saturday market on Tokoğlu's edge — the peninsula's slow-food anchor and the village's true social square

The mastic park north of the village — the peninsula's only living gallery of Pistacia lentiscus and the Sakız Ağacım revival project's home

The original sakızlı muhallebi house — the recipe the rest of the country has spent twenty years trying to copy

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie — a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

Italian-leaning Mediterranean kitchen on the cape — pasta, wood-fired pizza and Aegean fish in a room engineered for long sea-view dinners

A 130-year stone-house garden in Hacımemiş where the Aegean serpme is taken seriously and the bazlama still comes off the saç

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter — a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Since 1993, the fishing-harbour family room that defined Port Alaçatı before the marina arrived around it

The original Şifne address of the Kabak fish dynasty — the quiet one, where the locals still go

Founded 1953 by the Kadagan brothers from Yugoslavia — the peninsula's archetype of stew-pot Anatolian home cooking, still in family hands

Ilıca Hotel's open-deck Aegean room overlooking the thermal bay — the resort coast's most assured kitchen

The 1974 Uğur Mumcu counter where the Çeşme kumru is still pressed the way the family wrote it — tomato, sucuk, kaşar, no shortcuts

Fish and Aegean meze on the marina edge, named after the Chios village whose flavours quietly cross the strait

A breakfast garden among Ovacık's vines — own house wine, own jams, own menemen

Roberto Fracasso's Hacımemiş courtyard — the only Alaçatı oven where the pizzaiolo is actually Italian

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village — forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women

A twelve-year Alaçatı kahvaltı institution that quietly moved into the village square — herbed eggs, proper jams, no theatrics

A reservation-only farm garden between Alaçatı and Ovacık where the orange-cured olives alone earn the trip